diff --git a/book/RiichiBook1-ch10-grand.tex b/book/RiichiBook1-ch10-grand.tex index 8cdeba0..74326ea 100644 --- a/book/RiichiBook1-ch10-grand.tex +++ b/book/RiichiBook1-ch10-grand.tex @@ -2,12 +2,12 @@ % Riichi Book 1, Chapter 10: Grand %~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ -\chapter{Grand strategies} \label{ch:grand} +\chapter{Les grandes stratégies} \label{ch:grand} \thispagestyle{empty} The most important goal in mahjong is to win a game or generally improve the placement. I do not deny the inherent joy of winning an expensive hand with rare {\jap yaku}. However, we should always keep in mind that winning a hand is just a means to an end; sometimes dealing into an opponent's (cheap) hand can serve our purpose of winning the game. In this chapter, I will discuss strategies to improve the placement. -\section{What do do in South-4} +\section{Que faire en Sud-4} Most mahjong rule sets adopt some type of {\jap uma} system where players get some extra bonus / penalty points according to the placement. For example, EMA rules award $15000$ points to the first ranked player, $5000$ points to the second ranked player, $-5000$ points to the third ranked player, and $-15000$ points to the fourth ranked player. \index{european@EMA} Such systems make it clearer that getting a better placement is generally more important than simply winning hands. @@ -26,7 +26,7 @@ \section{What do do in South-4} \bigskip That being said, assisting other players in hopes of their getting a {\jap mangan tsumo} is more like a last resort. What you should think about first and foremost is winning your own hand that is just expensive enough to improve your placement, which we will now turn to. -\subsection*{Improving the placement by {\jap ron} / {\jap tsumo}} +\subsection*{Améliorer son placement par {\jap ron} / {\jap tsumo}} As the discussion in the previous section illustrates, you need to be extra conscious about your placement in South-4. If you are currently ahead of the game, your top priority is to maintain your placement. If you are behind, you should do your best to improve your placement as much as possible. \bigskip @@ -67,7 +67,7 @@ \subsection*{Improving the placement by {\jap ron} / {\jap tsumo}} \bigskip You should rather keep the hand 1-away by discarding {\LARGE\wan{8}}. If you draw {\LARGE\suo{1}} or {\LARGE\suo{3}}, you can then do insta-riichi to get riichi + {\jap sanshoku} = at least 5200 (3 {\jap han}--40 minipoints). Winning it by {\jap ron} from anyone is now sufficient to improve the placement. If you draw {\LARGE\wan{5}} or {\LARGE\wan{7}}, you can also do insta-riichi to get riichi + {\jap pinfu} + {\jap dora}. Winning it either by {\jap tsumo} or {\jap ippatsu ron} is sufficient to improve the placement.\footnote{Drawing \wan{7} means you are in {\jap furiten}, but you should still do insta-riichi.} -\subsection*{Point difference induced by {\jap tsumo}} +\subsection*{L'écart de points comblé par {\jap tsumo}} Getting the correct point differences induced by {\jap tsumo} can be a bit complicated. For example, suppose you are the North player, currently ranked second in South-4. The West player is leading the game, having 6300 more points. In this situation, would winning a 3 {\jap han}--30 minipoints hand by {\jap tsumo} be enough to improve the placement? What about winning a 3 {\jap han}--40 minipoints (= 4 {\jap han}--20 minipoints) hand by {\jap tsumo}? \bigskip @@ -181,7 +181,7 @@ \subsection*{Point difference induced by {\jap tsumo}} However, if you manage to draw {\LARGE\tong{8}} or {\LARGE\suo{7}}, you should extend the melded set to a melded quad. Doing so not only gives you a chance of {\jap rinshan tsumo} or new {\jap dora} but also enables you to improve the placement when drawing {\LARGE\suo{4}}. This is because the hand will have 50 minipoints if you {\jap tsumo}: 20 for the base minipoints + 8 for a melded Kong of {\LARGE\tong{8}} or {\LARGE\suo{7}} + 2 for a melded set of {\LARGE\suo{7}} or {\LARGE\tong{8}} + 4 for a concealed set of {\LARGE\wan{2}} + 2 for a pair of {\LARGE\fa} + 4 for a concealed set of {\LARGE\suo{4}} + 2 for {\jap tsumo} = 42, rounded up to 50 minipoints. A 2 {\jap han}--50 minipoints {\jap tsumo} induces a 4800 point difference against the dealer. %\newpage -\subsection*{Maintaining your placement} +\subsection*{Maintenir votre placement} If you are ahead of the game in South-4, you should do your best to maintain your current rank. Trying to win a cheap but fast hand to end the game is an option, but be extra careful not to deal into an opponent's expensive hand. For example, suppose you have 15200 more points than the second ranked player. If neither you nor the second ranked player is the dealer, he cannot defeat you even with a {\jap haneman tsumo}. Then, what you need to be wary of the most is to give him a direct hit {\jap mangan ron}. You will lose not only the 8000 points for the {\jap mangan} payment but also the 10000 bonus points for the placement, a total net loss of 18000 points. \bigskip @@ -204,7 +204,7 @@ \subsection*{Maintaining your placement} So, what should you do in such a situation? What you should be afraid of the most is a {\jap haneman tsumo} by South or North. However, notice that South and North are in a fierce competition among themselves. Take advantage of this. If winning a fast hand yourself does not seem possible, you should try to assist the South player. Since the South player is your right player, you should discard versatile middle tiles (3--7) so that he would call {\jap chii} on them, possibly with a red five (because South needs 2 {\jap han}). Recall that even giving him a direct hit {\jap mangan ron} will secure you the first place. -\section{What to do by South-3} +\section{Que faire jusqu'en Sud-3} It is never too early to start paying attention to your placement. If you are behind other players, the target point difference you should achieve before the beginning of South-4 is 10000 points or fewer. Overtaking with a 10000 point difference in a single hand is a tough but not unrealistic goal; you can do so either by {\jap mangan tsumo} or {\jap haneman ron}. \bigskip @@ -234,7 +234,7 @@ \section{What to do by South-3} \newpage -\section{Tables for induced point differences} +\section{Tableaux pour les écarts de points induits} {\begin{table}[h!] \centering\captionsetup{font=small}\small diff --git a/book/RiichiBook1-ch11-offline.tex b/book/RiichiBook1-ch11-offline.tex index b91d7e5..a07b9cb 100644 --- a/book/RiichiBook1-ch11-offline.tex +++ b/book/RiichiBook1-ch11-offline.tex @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ % Riichi Book 1, Chapter 11: offline %~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ -\chapter{Manners for offline playing} \label{ch:manners} +\chapter{Les bonnes manières pour le jeu hors-ligne} \label{ch:manners} \thispagestyle{empty} Manners are meant to make the game of mahjong a pleasant experience. diff --git a/book/RiichiBook1-ch12-appendix.tex b/book/RiichiBook1-ch12-appendix.tex index 8ce04d6..d9d63fe 100644 --- a/book/RiichiBook1-ch12-appendix.tex +++ b/book/RiichiBook1-ch12-appendix.tex @@ -1,9 +1,9 @@ %~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ % Riichi Book 1, Appendix %~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ -\chapter{Further readings} \label{ch:read} +\chapter{Autres suggestions de lecture} \label{ch:read} \thispagestyle{empty} -\section{Books on riichi mahjong} +\section{Livres sur le mah-jong japonais} \begin{wrapfigure}{r}{40mm} \vspace{-35pt} \begin{center} @@ -60,7 +60,7 @@ \section{Books on riichi mahjong} \newpage -\section{Online resources} +\section{Ressources en ligne} \subsection*{Osamuko: \url{http://osamuko.com/}} \index{Osamuko} Osamuko is one of the most extensive online mahjong blogs in English. There are quite a few blog entries there, and many of them are very good. In particular, I find the articles by a contributor named UmaiKeiki very useful. diff --git a/book/RiichiBook1-ch2-tenhou2.tex b/book/RiichiBook1-ch2-tenhou2.tex index 54cbab6..223eede 100644 --- a/book/RiichiBook1-ch2-tenhou2.tex +++ b/book/RiichiBook1-ch2-tenhou2.tex @@ -1,10 +1,10 @@ %~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ % Riichi Book 1, Chapter 2: Tenhou guide 2 %~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ -\chapter{Advanced features of {\jap Tenhou}} \label{ch:Tenhou2} +\chapter{Le guide {\jap Tenhou}, 2e partie} \label{ch:Tenhou2} \thispagestyle{empty} -\section{Rank and rating} +\section{Rang et cote} \begin{floatingtable}[r]{ \footnotesize \captionsetup{font=footnotesize} @@ -29,16 +29,16 @@ \section{Rank and rating} \caption{Player distribution} \label{tbl:rank} \end{floatingtable} -{\jap Tenhou} has two different player rating systems --- rank ({\jap kyu / dan}) and R (rate). -The {\jap kyu / dan} ranking system is similar to the one commonly used in Japanese arts, games, and martial arts. -The {\jap kyu} (級) ranks are shown in arabic numbers, going from 9級 to 1級 in descending order. After passing 1級, you enter the {\jap dan} (段) ranks, shown in {\jap kanji} numbers, going from 初段 (一段; first {\jap dan}) to 十段 (tenth {\jap dan}) in ascending order. Everyone starts with {\jap 新人} (newbie; no rank), and if you pass the 十段 rank, you are awarded the highest rank called 天鳳位 ({\jap Tenhoui}). Since the inception of {\jap Tenhou} in 2006, there have been only nine players who have achieved 天鳳位 at the time of writing this book. -Table \ref{tbl:rank} shows the distribution of active players holding each rank as of 20 December, 2015. +{\jap Tenhou} possède deux systèmes d’évaluation de joueurs : le rang ({\jap kyu / dan}) et la cote R. +Le système de rangs {\jap kyu / dan} est similaire à ceux utilisés par les disciplines artistiques, des jeux et arts martiaux japonais. +Les rangs {\jap kyu} (級) sont dénotés avec des chiffres, allant de 9級 à 1級 en ordre décroissant. La promotion après 1級 mène aux rangs {\jap dan} (段), dénotés avec les caractères {\jap kanji} numéraux, allant du 初段 (一段; premier {\jap dan}) au 十段 (dixième {\jap dan}) en ordre croissant. Tout nouveau joueur commence au rang débutant {\jap 新人} (newbie; no rank), et si vous surpassez le dixième dan (十段), vous recevez le plus haut rang, intitulé 天鳳位 ({\jap Tenhoui}). Depuis les débuts du serveur {\jap Tenhou} en 2006, seuls neuf joueurs ont atteint ce plateau au moment d’écrire ce livre. Le tableau \ref{tbl:rank} reflète la distribution des joueurs actifs titulaires d’un rang en date du 20 décembre 2015. +NDT : Il y a présentement 12 de ces comptes en date du 7 mai 2017, dont un joueur qui a atteint ce titre avec deux comptes distincts. \bigskip -\subsection{{\jap kyu / dan} rank} +\subsection{Les rangs {\jap kyu / dan}} -To advance your {\jap kyu / dan} rank, you need to earn points (called ``pt'' or ``段位 pt'' on {\jap Tenhou}). For example, to proceed from the 新人 (newbie) status to the 9 級 ({\jap kyu}) rank, you need to earn 30 points. Required amount of points for promotion gets greater and greater as you move further up. For example, to proceed from 六段 (sixth {\jap dan}) to 七段 (seventh {\jap dan}), you need to earn as many as 1200 points. +Pour avancer son rang {\jap kyu / dan}, vous devez gagner des points de placement (abrévié « pt » ou « 段位 pt » sur {\jap Tenhou}). Par exemple, passer de 新人 (novice) à 9級 ({\jap kyu}), il vous faut 30 points. Le montant de points requis pour progresser croît à mesure que vous gravissez les rangs. Pour passer du 六段 (6e {\jap dan}) au 七段 (7e {\jap dan}), il vous faudra 1 200 points. \bigskip To find out how many more points you need to earn to advance to the next rank from the current rank, see the top right part of the main page. @@ -115,7 +115,7 @@ \subsection{{\jap kyu / dan} rank} \bigskip Since you never get negative points in games until you reach 2級 and there is no demotion until you reach 初段 (first {\jap dan}), it should be relatively easy to reach 初段. In fact, even without studying the contents of this book, you can perhaps reach as high as 四段 (fourth {\jap dan}) if you play a few hundred games or so. However, moving further up will probably require that you study basic strategies and tile efficiency theories. -\subsection{Rate (R)} +\subsection{La cote R} In addition to the {\jap kyu / dan} rank, {\jap Tenhou} gives each player another rating called R. The initial value of R is 1500, and higher-rank players tend to have a higher R. For example, the average R among the 天鳳位 players is 2248.%\footnote{In case you are curious, the highest R I have reached as of December 2015 is 2106.} @@ -139,34 +139,34 @@ \subsection{Rate (R)} Notice what the adjustment $\bar{R}$ does. This factor is positive when you play against players who are ``stronger'' than you (i.e., have a higher R than you) while it is negative when you play against players who are ``weaker'' than you. Therefore, when you win against stronger players, your reward will be bigger than when winning against weaker players. Likewise, when you lose against weaker players, your punishment will be severer than when losing against stronger players. Because of these features, one might say that your R better reflects your skill levels than your {\jap kyu / dan} rank. -\section{Four rooms} +\section{Quatre salles de jeu} As we have seen, there are four different rooms where ranking matches are played. Qualifications to play in each room are based on your rank and R. -\subsection*{1. 一般 ({\jap ippan}; lower-level room)} +\subsection*{1. La salle commune (一般 ({\jap ippan})} This is the only room where you can play initially. Players with an R higher than 1800 and a rank higher than 四段 are not allowed to play here, however. Games in this room can sometimes be a bit random, even chaotic at times. Some of the players in this room probably do not understand the rules very well. You very rarely come across strong players here. -\subsection*{2. 上級 ({\jap joukyu}; upper-level room)} +\subsection*{2. La salle avancée (上級 ({\jap joukyu})} You can play here if (1) your rank is 1級 or higher or (2) you buy a two-month membership (\textyen~1080 = \euro~8 = \textsterling~6).\footnote{If you want to pay for the membership, click on the link that appears when you click the 上級 sub-tab. Keep in mind that you need to buy 60 days' worth of membership. Choose ``60日分を購入(1080円)'' in the payment page.} Players with an R higher than 2000 and a rank higher than 七段 are not allowed to play in this room, however. \bigskip Games in the {\jap joukyu} room are more reasonable than those in the lower-level room, but you still see many players who do not defend at all, do meaningless {\jap dama} / unreasonable riichi, and make serious mistakes in maximizing tile efficiency. In my impression, games at EMA tournaments most resemble games in the {\jap ippan} and {\jap joukyu} rooms.\index{european@EMA} -\subsection*{3. 特上 ({\jap tokujou}; advanced room)} +\subsection*{3. La salle élite (特上 ({\jap tokujou})} Requirements to play in this room are pretty demanding. You have to have a 四段 or higher rank and a 1800 or higher R. The latter requirement is particularly difficult to satisfy for intermediate players. As I wrote above, achieving the rank of 四段 is not that difficult, but satisfying the R $\geq$ 1800 condition requires that you take mahjong rather seriously. Since weak players are shut out from the {\jap tokujou} room, games in {\jap tokujou} are qualitatively different from those in the {\jap joukyu} and {\jap ippan} rooms. Games in this room feel similar to those you'd experience at regular フリー ({\jap furii}) mahjong parlors in Japan. -\subsection*{4. 鳳凰 ({\jap houou}; phoenix room)} +\subsection*{4. La salle phénix (鳳凰 ({\jap houou})} This is the highest-level room in {\jap Tenhou}. In order to play in this room, you have to have all of the following: (1) a 七段 or higher rank, (2) a 2000 or higher R, and (3) a paid membership (\textyen~540 yen = \euro~4 = \textsterling~3 per month). Satisfying the first two conditions can be really, really challenging. \bigskip This is arguably one of the highest-level mahjong locales in the whole world. It is not uncommon for you to come across a {\jap houou}-level player at a regular mahjong parlor in Japan. However, you usually play against at most one {\jap houou}-level player at a table, and the two other players at the table are either {\jap tokujou}- or {\jap joukyu}-level players. What is remarkable about games in the {\jap houou} room is that you will be surrounded by three other {\jap houou}-level players. It would be safe to say that no other public mahjong locale in the world --- whether it is online or offline --- could offer a comparable experience.\footnote{Perhaps the highest-level leagues in professional mahjong associations in Japan have players who are of comparable quality, but you have to become a professional player to play at such leagues. Even after becoming a professional, you will need at least a few years to reach the highest league.} -\section{Reading the statistics} +\section{Interpréter les statistiques} After you play 30 games or so, you may want to start paying attention to the statistics shown on the right-hand side of the main page.\footnote{There is really no point in reading too much into the statistics when you have played only a few games; the sample size is too small to be meaningful.} The upper half of the player statistics shows your statistics for the entire period, whereas the bottom half shows your statistics in the present month for a given type of game in a given room. \bigskip -\subsection{Overall statistics} +\subsection{Statistiques globales} The picture below show my old player statistics (upper half) back from when I had a 二段 rank. Let me explain how to read these statistics. @@ -247,7 +247,7 @@ \subsection{Overall statistics} \vfill -\subsection{Monthly statistics} +\subsection{Statistiques mensuelles} The bottom-right part of the main page shows monthly statistics from games you have played in a given room. The box is a pull-down menu that lets you choose the room (一般, 上級, 特上, 鳳凰) and game type (East-only, East--South, with or without open {\jap tanyao}, red fives, etc.). In the example below, the box reads 月間 / 上南 喰アリ赤, which means the following: 月間 means monthly, 上 is short for 上級 ({\jap joukyu})\footnote{Likewise, 般 is short for 一般 ({\jap ippan}), 特 is for 特上 ({\jap tokujou}), 鳳 is for 鳳凰 ({\jap houou}).}, 喰アリ赤 means with open {\jap tanyao} and red fives. \begin{center} @@ -276,8 +276,8 @@ \subsection{Monthly statistics} The 総合 (total) score is the sum of four placements: cumulative 得点, cumulative 順位, average 得点, and average 順位. In this example, I earn 106th, 80th, 5th, and 3th places for these scores, so my total score is 106+80+5+3 = 194 (the lower, the better), which puts me in 12th place among all the players who have played 30 or more 上南 喰アリ赤 games this month. At the bottom, you see トップ率 (first place rate), ラス率 (fourth place rate), and 連対率 (first or second place rate) for 上南 喰アリ赤 games this month. -\section{Viewing games} -\subsection{Game replay (牌譜)} +\section{Observer une partie} +\subsection{Historiques de jeu (牌譜)} {\jap Tenhou} keeps the record of all the games played there, giving each game a unique URL. You can easily take a look at any of the last 40 games you have played on the 牌譜 ({\jap haifu}; game record) tab on the main page. Click on any of the 牌譜 link shown in the 牌譜 tab to start a replay of the game. You can choose to view the game from any of the four players' viewpoint, not to show the hands of the other three players, or to go back and forth between turns / hands, etc. When we play mahjong, we often wonder what the opponents are doing (e.g., what are their waits? are they doing {\jap honitsu}?, etc.). You can find out the answers to these questions after the game by taking a look at the game record. @@ -300,6 +300,6 @@ \subsection{Game replay (牌譜)} \bigskip To start a replay, click on a link that reads >> Flash版牌譜ビューアで開く shown at the bottom of the page. Clicking on the HTML+JS版牌譜ビューアで開く link will also work, but this one is the low-quality picture version with limited options. -\subsection{Spectating games (観戦)} +\subsection{Regarder une partie en cours (観戦)} You can watch games played in the 特上 ({\jap tokujou}; advanced) and the 鳳凰 ({\jap houou}; phoenix) rooms quasi-real time (with a five-minute delay). Click on the 観戦 ({\jap kansen}; spectating) tab from the main page and you will see the list of games you can watch. Click on one of the player name links to start spectating the game from the chosen player's viewpoint. diff --git a/book/RiichiBook1-ch3-basics.tex b/book/RiichiBook1-ch3-basics.tex index d17264c..64b9efc 100644 --- a/book/RiichiBook1-ch3-basics.tex +++ b/book/RiichiBook1-ch3-basics.tex @@ -1,17 +1,17 @@ %~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ % Riichi Book 1, Chapter 3: Basics %~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ -\chapter{Riichi mahjong basics}\label{ch:basic} +\chapter{Les bases du mah-jong japonais}\label{ch:basic} \thispagestyle{empty} -\section{Learning strategies} +\section{Stratégies d’apprentissage} -Mahjong is a game of skill and luck. -There is a set of strategy principles you can learn to improve your skills, but acquiring skills is neither necessary nor sufficient to win a game. On the contrary, with luck, an unskilled player can easily defeat strong players in mahjong. At least in the short run, game outcomes are governed more by luck than by skills.\footnote{An interesting question would be: how short is the ``short'' run here. That is, how many games do we need in order to discern a strong player from weak players? Studies show that we would need at least 100 games or so to have a reliable estimate of our skill levels. Given that EMA tournaments usually have only 8 games, winning at these tournaments requires quite a bit of luck.\index{european@EMA}} -However, learning strategy principles is crucial to improve your performance in the long run. Moreover, you will be able to enjoy the game in greater depth once you understand these principles. +Le mah-jong est un jeu de talent et de hasard. +Il y a un ensemble de principes stratégiques que vous pouvez apprendre pour vous améliorer, mais l'acquisition de connaissances et de talents ne sont ni nécessaires ni suffisants pour gagner. Au contraire, avec un peu de chance, un joueur novice peut facilement battre un joueur fort au mah-jong. Dans le court terme, les résultats de jeu sont plus tributaires de chance que du talent.\footnote{Une question intéressante serait : comment définit-on court terme? Autrement dit, combien de parties nous faudra-t-il pour discerner un joueur fort d'un joueur faible? Les études démontrent qu'il faudrait au moins 100 parties pour avoir une estimation fiable de notre niveau de talent. Étant donné que les tournois européens (de l'EMA) ont typiquement que 8 parties, gagner ces toursnois requiert une grande part de chance.\index{european@EMA}} +Par contre, apprendre les principes stratégiques est critique afin de pouvoir améliorer votre performance à long terme. En sus, vous pourrez apprécier le jeu davantage en profondeur lorsque vous aurez compris ces principes. \bigskip -Because of the probabilistic nature of the game, making the best choice does not always lead to the best outcome. The best choices are those that lead to the best outcome, \emph{on average}. An evaluation of our choices thus requires a \emph{probabilistic} (i.e., statistical) assessment of different options. For example, consider the following hand. +Dû à la nature probabiliste du jeu, faire le meilleur choix n'aboutit pas toujours au meilleur résultat. Les meilleurs choix sont ceux qui mènent au meilleur résultat, \emph{en moyenne}. Une évaluation de nos choix requiert donc une analyse \emph{probabiliste} (c.-à-d. statistique) d'options diverses. Par exemple, considérez la main suivante. \vspace{5pt} \begin{screen} \bp @@ -35,47 +35,47 @@ \section{Learning strategies} It is possible that, after you decided on the {\LARGE\tong{5} \tong{8}} wait, your opponents end up not discarding {\LARGE\tong{5}} or {\LARGE\tong{8}} at all, while discarding lots of {\LARGE\wan{4} \tong{6}}. This is the kind of things that will happen often in mahjong (or in any game of luck, for that matter). When things like this happen, do not think that you made a bad call; you didn't. You made the right choice, but you were just unlucky. When we experience this kind of bad luck, we just need to keep calm and carry on. \bigskip -Before discussing a practical method of maximizing tile efficiency in the next chapter, I will discuss some basic principles of tile efficiency in this chapter. In doing so, I introduce several key terms we use in later chapters. I will also provide the original Japanese term for each (shown in {\jap this font}). I do so because you may find these Japanese terms used in some online strategy discussions in English. +Avant de discuter une méthode pratique de maximiser l'efficacité des tuiles dans le chapitre suivant, je vais discuter des principes essentiels de l'efficacité des tuiles dans ce chapitre. En faisant comme tel, j'introduis plusieurs termes-clés que nous allons utiliser au cours des chapitres suivants. Je vais aussi fournir le terme d'origine en japonais pour chacun (écrit dans {\jap cette police}). Je fais ceci car vous pouvez trouver ces termes japonais utilisés dans bon nombre de discussion en français. (NDT : aussi en anglais et dans d'autres langues occidentales) \section{Basic building blocks} -\subsection{Tiles} +\subsection{Les tuiles} -Mahjong tiles can be classified into two categories --- number tiles and honor tiles. +Les tuiles de mah-jong peuvent être classifiées en deux grandes catégories : terme37311 et les honneurs. -\subsubsection{Number tiles} +\subsubsection{terme37311} -\begin{itembox}[c]{Number tiles} +\begin{itembox}[c]{terme37311} \centering \begin{tabular}{l c c} -{Cracks (characters)} & {\jap Manzu} & {\Huge\wan{1}\wan{2}\wan{3}\wan{4}\wan{5}\wan{6}\wan{7}\wan{8}\wan{9}}\\ [\sep] -{Dots (circles)} & {\jap Pinzu} & {\Huge \tong{1}\tong{2}\tong{3}\tong{4}\tong{5}\tong{6}\tong{7}\tong{8}\tong{9}}\\ [\sep] -{Bamboos} & {\jap Souzu} & {\Huge\suo{1}\suo{2}\suo{3}\suo{4}\suo{5}\suo{6}\suo{7}\suo{8}\suo{9}}\\ +{Chiffres (caractères)} & {\jap manzu} & {\Huge\wan{1}\wan{2}\wan{3}\wan{4}\wan{5}\wan{6}\wan{7}\wan{8}\wan{9}}\\ [\sep] +{Sapèques (ronds)} & {\jap pinzu} & {\Huge \tong{1}\tong{2}\tong{3}\tong{4}\tong{5}\tong{6}\tong{7}\tong{8}\tong{9}}\\ [\sep] +{Bambous} & {\jap sōzu} & {\Huge\suo{1}\suo{2}\suo{3}\suo{4}\suo{5}\suo{6}\suo{7}\suo{8}\suo{9}}\\ \end{tabular} \end{itembox} \bigskip \noindent -We further classify number tiles into {\bf simples} ({\jap tanyao hai}; tiles between 2 and 8) and {\bf terminals} (1 and 9). They are differentiated because they serve different {\jap yaku} and generate different minipoints ({\jap fu}). +Nous classifions encore terme37311 en {\bf simples} ({\jap tanyao hai}; tuiles entre 2 et 8) et en {\bf extrémités} (1 et 9). Elles sont différenciées car elles servent à construire des {\jap yaku} différents et générent des minipoints ({\jap fu}) différents. \index{simple tiles ({\jap tanyao hai})} \index{tanyao@{\jap tanyao hai} (simple tiles)} \index{terminal tiles} \index{fu@{\jap fu} (minipoint)} \index{minipoint ({\jap fu})} \bigskip -It has become quite common to include some red five tiles. For example, most games on {\jap Tenhou} have one red five tile in each suit, {\LARGE \rfw~\rfd~\rfs}. These tiles are included in place of regular fives; we have three regular fives and one red five in each suit. Red fives are treated as {\jap dora} regardless of the {\jap dora} indicator. When a 4 in a given suit is the {\jap dora} indicator, the red five in that suit will be a double {\jap dora} tile. +C'est devenu très commun d'inclure des tuiles rouges dans le jeu (que des cinqs en Occident). Par exemple, la plupart des parties sur {\jap Tenhou} ont une tuile de cinq rouge dans chaque couleur, {\LARGE \rfw~\rfd~\rfs}. Ces tuiles sont présentes en remplacement des cinqs ordinaires; nous nous retrouvons avec trois cinqs normaux et un cinq rouge par couleur. Les cinqs rouges sont traités comme des dora {\jap dora} sans égard à l'indicateur de {\jap dora}. Quand un quatre dans une couleur donnée est l'indicateur de {\jap dora}, le cinq rouge dans cette couleur compte comme une tuile double {\jap dora}. \vfill -\subsubsection{Honor tiles} +\subsubsection{Tuiles d'honneurs} \index{honor tiles ({\jap jihai})} \index{jihai@{\jap jihai} (honor tiles)} -\begin{itembox}[c]{Honor tiles} +\begin{itembox}[c]{Tuiles d'honneurs} \centering \footnotesize \begin{tabular}{l c c c c} -Dragon tiles & {\Huge\bai} & {\Huge\fa} & {\Huge\zhong}\\ -& White ({\jap haku}) & Green ({\jap hatsu}) & Red ({\jap chun})\\ \\ -Wind tiles &{\Huge\dong} &{\Huge\nan}& {\Huge\xi}& {\Huge\bei}\\ -& East ({\jap ton}) &South ({\jap nan}) & West ({\jap sha}) &North ({\jap pei})\\ +Tuiles de dragons & {\Huge\bai} & {\Huge\fa} & {\Huge\zhong}\\ +& Blanc ({\jap haku}) & Vert ({\jap hatsu}) & Rouge ({\jap chun})\\ \\ +Tuiles de vents &{\Huge\dong} &{\Huge\nan}& {\Huge\xi}& {\Huge\bei}\\ +& Est ({\jap ton}) & Sud ({\jap nan}) & Ouest ({\jap sha}) & Nord ({\jap pei})\\ \end{tabular} \end{itembox} @@ -84,10 +84,10 @@ \subsubsection{Honor tiles} \index{yakuhai@{\jap yakuhai} ({\jap fanpai}; value tiles)} \index{valueless wind@valueless wind ({\jap otakaze})} \index{otakaze@{\jap otakaze} (valueless wind)} -\noindent Some honor tiles are {\bf value tiles} ({\jap fanpai / yakuhai}); we get one {\jap han} if we collect three identical value tiles. All dragon tiles are value tiles regardless of the round and seating. On the other hand, the value status of wind tiles depends on the round and the seating. East tiles are value tiles for everyone during the East round, and South tiles are value tiles for everyone during the South round. In addition, each player gets their own seating wind as a value tile. For example, West tiles are value tiles only for the West player, but they are valueless wind tiles ({\jap otakaze}) for other players. +\noindent Certaines tuiles d'honneur sont des {\bf tuiles de valeur} ({\jap fanpai} (ancien) / {\jap yakuhai} (moderne)); on gagne un {\jap han} si on tient trois tuiles de valeur identiques. Tous les tuiles de dragons sont des tuiles de valeur peu importe le vent du tour et l'emplacement (vent du joueur). Pour les autres tuiles d'honneur, l'état de valeur produite provenant des tuiles de vents dépendent du tour de jeu et de l'emplacement des joueurs. Les vents d'est sont des tuiles de valeur pour tous pendant le tour est, et les vents du sud sont des tuiles de valeur pour tous pendant le tour sud. En sus, chaque joueur a une position associée à un vent : ce vent leur accorde des tuiles de valeur propres à lui seul. Par exemple, les tuiles de vent d'ouest sont des tuiles de valeur uniquement pour le joueur en position ouest, mais sont sans valeur ({\jap otakaze}) pour les autres joueurs. \vfill -\subsection{Group ({\jap mentsu})} +\subsection{Les groupes ({\jap mentsu})} \index{run ({\jap shuntsu}; chow)} \index{chow ({\jap shuntsu}; run)} \index{shuntsu@{\jap shuntsu} (run; chow)} @@ -99,12 +99,12 @@ \subsection{Group ({\jap mentsu})} \index{kan@{\jap kan} (kong)} \index{kantsu@{\jap kantsu} (quad)} \index{quad@quad ({\jap kantsu})} -One of the major goals in playing mahjong is to win a hand.\footnote{Another important goal is not to deal into an opponent's hand. See Chapter \ref{ch:defense} for discussions of defense strategies. However, the most important goal of all is to win a game. Winning a hand and playing defense are merely two means to this end. See Chapter \ref{ch:grand} for more discussions of this.} -To win a standard hand, we need to complete four groups ({\jap mentsu}) and one head ({\jap atama}; final pair).\footnote{There are three exceptions to this; {\jap chiitoitsu} (Seven Pairs), {\jap kokushi musou} (Thirteen Orphans), and {\jap nagashi mangan} (All Terminals and Honors Discard) do not require four groups and one head.} -Groups can be classified into two kinds --- {\bf run} and {\bf set}.\footnote{EMA rules refer to run as ``chow'' and set as ``pung.'' I realize that my use of different terminology here might be confusing at first, but I hope you will get used to it soon.} +Un des buts majeurs en jouant au mah-jong est de gagner une main.\footnote{Un autre but important est de ne pas écarter la tuile gagnante pour la main d'un adversaire. Voir le chapitre \ref{ch:defense} pour la discussion de stratégies défensives. Toutefois, le but ultime est de gagner la partie. Gagner une main et jouer défensivement demeurent simplement des moyens pour arriver à nos fins. Voir le chapitre \ref{ch:grand} pour la discussion de ce sujet.} +Pour gagner une main normale, il faut compléter quatre groupes ({\jap mentsu}) et une paire ({\jap atama}; paire finale).\footnote{Il y a 3 exceptions à ceci : {\jap chiitoitsu} (sept paires), {\jap kokushi musou} (treize orphelins), et {\jap nagashi mangan} (la pile fantastique) ne requierrent pas quatre groupes et une paire.} +Les groupes peuvent être classifiés en deux types : comme {\bf suite} et comme {\bf brelan}.\footnote{Les règles EMA réfèrent à une suite comme un « chow » \textit{[tcha-o / chaud]} et un brelan comme un « pung ». Je réalise que mon usage de ces termes différents peut initialement porter à confusion, mais j'espère que vous vous habituerez à ça bientôt.} \bi -\i Run ({\jap shuntsu}; chow / sequence) is a set of three consecutive number tiles: e.g., {\LARGE \wan{7}\wan{8}\wan{9}}, {\LARGE \suo{3}\suo{4}\suo{5}}. -\i Set ({\jap kotsu}; pung / triplet) is a set of three identical tiles: e.g., {\LARGE \wan{2}\wan{2}\wan{2}}, {\LARGE \fa\fa\fa}.\footnote{Technically speaking, there is a third type of groups, namely quad ({\jap kantsu}; kong), a set of four identical tiles. We treat quads as a variant of sets. See Section \ref{sec:kong} for discussions on this.} +\i Une suite ({\jap shuntsu}; chow / séquence) est un ensemble de trois terme37311 consécutifs: p.ex., {\LARGE \wan{7}\wan{8}\wan{9}}, {\LARGE \suo{3}\suo{4}\suo{5}}. +\i Un brelan ({\jap kotsu}; pung / triplet) est un ensemble de trois tuiles identiques: p.ex., {\LARGE \wan{2}\wan{2}\wan{2}}, {\LARGE \fa\fa\fa}.\footnote{Techniquement parlant, il y a un troisième type de groupe, notamment les carrés ({\jap kantsu}; kong), un ensemble de quatre tuiles identiques. On traite un carré comme une variante de brelan. Voir la section \ref{sec:kong} pour la discussion à ce sujet.} \ei @@ -178,7 +178,7 @@ \subsubsection{Advancing your hand} Reverting a 1-away hand to 2-away makes sense only in some exceptional cases where tile acceptance at 1-away becomes unbearably small (i.e., fewer than 2 kinds). With this hand, the hand will be able to accept {\LARGE\tong{2}\tong{5}\suo{8}} (3 kinds--12 tiles) when it becomes 1-away. -\subsection{Protoruns ({\jap taatsu})} \label{sec:protorun} +\subsection{Les protosuites ({\jap taatsu})} \label{sec:protorun} \index{protorun ({\jap taatsu})} \index{taatsu@{\jap taatsu} (protorun)} \index{waits!side wait} \index{waits!closed wait} \index{waits!edge wait} @@ -190,7 +190,7 @@ \subsection{Protoruns ({\jap taatsu})} \label{sec:protorun} \bigskip {\begin{table}[h!]\centering \small \captionsetup{font=footnotesize} -\caption{Types of protoruns} \label{tbl:proto} +\caption{Types de protosuites} \label{tbl:proto} \begin{tabular}{l l c c l} \toprule Name & Japanese & Example & Wait & Acceptance\\ @@ -265,7 +265,7 @@ \subsubsection{Tile versatility} \label{sec:versatility} \normalcolor \bigskip -\subsection{Pairs ({\jap toitsu})}\label{sec:closevers} +\subsection{Les paires ({\jap toitsu})}\label{sec:closevers} \index{pair ({\jap toitsu})} \index{toitsu@{\jap toitsu} (pair)} A set of two identical tiles is called a {\bf pair} ({\jap toitsu}). @@ -289,7 +289,7 @@ \subsubsection{Building the head} This hand is now waiting for {\LARGE\tong{2} \tong{5}-\tong{8}} (3 kinds--9 tiles). When a hand is missing the head, it is often the case that the wait gets significantly improved quite easily. -\subsection{Pairs and sets} \label{sec:2pairs} +\subsection{Parlons de paires et de brelans} \label{sec:2pairs} Another important role a pair can play is to work as a candidate for a set. Especially when a hand has two pairs, we can count on one of the two pairs to become the head while the other becomes a set. In other words, the value of pairs is maximized when there are two (and only two) pairs in a hand. Let's see why this is the case by comparing hands with one, two, and three pairs. @@ -345,7 +345,7 @@ \subsection{Pairs and sets} \label{sec:2pairs} \bigskip -\subsubsection{Open hand} +\subsubsection{Main ouverte} There is an important caveat to the above rule. When we intend to call {\jap pon}, having three pairs is actually better than having two pairs. This is because the hand will become a two-pair hand after we call {\jap pon} once. @@ -522,7 +522,7 @@ \subsubsection{Double closed ({\jap ryankan}) shape} \label{sec:ryankan} \bigskip Therefore, when we draw a tile next to the head, creating a side-wait protorun, we should keep it and break the double closed shape instead. In the first example above, as we draw {\LARGE\wan{2}} that creates a side-wait protorun {\LARGE\wan{4}\wan{5}}, we should keep it and discard the {\LARGE\suo{2}} instead. In the second example above, as we draw {\LARGE\tong{7}} that creates a side-wait protorun {\LARGE\tong{7}\tong{8}}, we should keep it and discard {\LARGE\suo{2}} instead. -\subsubsection{Protorun plus one shape} +\subsubsection{Les formes « protogroupe + 1 »} As we saw with the first example in Section \ref{sec:ptat}, we often come across a tile combination such as {\LARGE\wan{5}\wan{5}\wan{7}} that is made up with one protorun plus one floating tile ({\LARGE\wan{5}\wan{7}} + {\LARGE\wan{5}}).\footnote{Alternatively, we can think of these combinations as a pair plus one {\wan{5}\wan{5} + \wan{7}}.} Depending on the type of protoruns, we can classify protorun plus one shapes into three types, as summarized in Table \ref{tbl:protoone}. @@ -573,7 +573,7 @@ \subsubsection{Protorun plus one shape} \bigskip When choosing between which protoruns plus one to break, priority should be given to the weaker one. Since the side-wait protorun {\LARGE\tong{3}\tong{4}} is much stronger than the closed-wait protorun {\LARGE\wan{4}\wan{6}}, we should prioritize the latter and maintain {\LARGE\wan{4}\wan{4}\wan{6}}. In other words, the side-wait protorun {\LARGE\tong{3}\tong{4}} is so strong that we do not need to provide a cover by maintaining the ``plus one'' tile, {\LARGE\tong{3}}. On the other hand, the closed-wait protorun {\LARGE\wan{4}\wan{6}} is weaker so we should cover it by keeping another {\LARGE\wan{4}} as a back-up. You should thus discard {\LARGE\tong{3}}. -\subsection{Four-tile complex shapes} +\subsection{Les formes complexes à quatre tuiles} Among several different kinds of four-tile complex shapes, we will focus on those that are made up of one group and one floating tile. There are three variants of this kind --- stretched single, bulging float, and skipping. \subsubsection{Stretched single ({\jap nobetan}) shape} \label{sec:nobetan} diff --git a/book/RiichiBook1-ch4-five.tex b/book/RiichiBook1-ch4-five.tex index 28b101c..c9fc14c 100644 --- a/book/RiichiBook1-ch4-five.tex +++ b/book/RiichiBook1-ch4-five.tex @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ % riichi Book 1, Chapter 4: Five block method %~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ -\chapter{The five-block method} \label{ch:five} +\chapter{La méthode des cinq blocs} \label{ch:five} \thispagestyle{empty} In introducing basic building blocks of riichi mahjong in the previous chapter, I have also touched upon a number of important tile efficiency principles --- @@ -121,7 +121,7 @@ \section{Alternative configurations} \vfill -\subsection*{Exercises: finding a redundant tile} +\subsection*{Exercices : trouver une tuile redondante} \bigskip @@ -332,7 +332,7 @@ \subsection*{Exercises: finding a redundant tile} \newpage -\section{Selecting tile blocks} +\section{Sélection des blocs de tuiles} All the hands we have seen so far in this chapter already have five tile blocks. In practice, however, this is not always the case. A hand can sometimes have fewer or more tile blocks. Since we need to have exactly five blocks to win a hand, we will need to bump up tile blocks by using a floating tile when we have fewer of them or to discard some blocks entirely when we have a plethora of them. \bigskip diff --git a/book/RiichiBook1-ch6-scores.tex b/book/RiichiBook1-ch6-scores.tex index 55d9faa..e207932 100644 --- a/book/RiichiBook1-ch6-scores.tex +++ b/book/RiichiBook1-ch6-scores.tex @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ % riichi Book 1, Chapter 6: Scoring %~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ -\chapter{Scoring}\label{ch:scores} +\chapter{Pointage}\label{ch:scores} \thispagestyle{empty} The scoring system in mahjong is quite complex. Getting proficiency in score calculation requires a lot of practice. The good news is that scoring is automatically done once you win a hand when you play online. Even when you play offline, you can usually count on your fellow players to help you get the correct score once you win a hand. @@ -538,7 +538,7 @@ \subsection{Examples} \noindent The hand has three concealed sets already, giving you at least {\jap san anko} (Three Concealed Pungs) in addition to {\jap toitoi} and Red Dragon. Now you no longer need any tedious minipoints calculation. If you win this hand by {\jap tsumo}, it is {\jap yakuman} ({\jap su anko}; Four Concealed Pungs). If you win it by {\jap ron}, you get five {\jap han} ({\jap toitoi}, {\jap san anko}, and Red Dragon); it is {\jap mangan} regardless of minipoints. \newpage -\section{Scoring tables} +\section{Tableaux de pointage} {\begin{table}[h!]\centering\footnotesize\captionsetup{font=footnotesize} \caption{Scores for non-dealer} \label{tbl:scores1} diff --git a/book/RiichiBook1-ch7-riichi.tex b/book/RiichiBook1-ch7-riichi.tex index 7c59410..fa7b2c6 100644 --- a/book/RiichiBook1-ch7-riichi.tex +++ b/book/RiichiBook1-ch7-riichi.tex @@ -5,7 +5,7 @@ \chapter{Riichi judgement} \label{ch:riichi} \thispagestyle{empty} -\section{To riichi or not to riichi?} +\section{Déclarer riichi, ou pas?} Riichi is a really powerful tool in riichi mahjong. Once you riichi, the opponents would have to slow down their attacks or even completely fold to avoid dealing into your hand. Therefore, one of our top priorities in playing riichi mahjong is to try to make the hand ready as fast as possible and call riichi before anyone else does. \bigskip diff --git a/book/RiichiBook1-ch8-defense.tex b/book/RiichiBook1-ch8-defense.tex index aa7547b..2b0279d 100644 --- a/book/RiichiBook1-ch8-defense.tex +++ b/book/RiichiBook1-ch8-defense.tex @@ -2,15 +2,15 @@ % Riichi Book 1, Chapter 8: Defense %~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ -\chapter{Defense judgement} \label{ch:defense} +\chapter{La défense} \label{ch:defense} \thispagestyle{empty} -\section{To push or to fold?} +\section{Pousser ou se coucher?} Knowing when to push and when to fold is another important element of mahjong strategies. Push--fold judgement is a lot more complicated than riichi judgement covered in the previous chapter. In presenting defense strategies, I will first describe a very simple principle that tells you when to be defensive and when to be offensive, based purely on your hand. After understanding this principle, the next step is to understand \emph{how} to be defensive. The latter part of this chapter introduces a set of defensive techniques. \bigskip -\subsection{A simple principle} +\subsection{Un principe simple} A lot of variables can factor into our decision to push or to fold against the opponents. You may want to consider, among other things, whether or not you currently have a ready hand, the potential hand value of your hand, the likely hand value of an opponent's hand, your current rank in the game, the opponent's standing in the game, just to name a few. \bigskip @@ -39,7 +39,7 @@ \subsection{A simple principle} \noindent Let me explain each component of this principle in turn. -\subsection{Guessing if an opponent has a ready hand} +\subsection{Déduire si un adversaire a une main prête} First, you need to guess if another player has a ready hand or not; if your opponent does not have a ready hand, there is no point in playing defensive. Of course, knowing whether an opponent has a ready hand can be difficult. Rather than spending too much time trying to guess if they have a ready hand, let's stick with rough but simple shortcuts. There are three possibilities to consider. @@ -55,7 +55,7 @@ \subsection{Guessing if an opponent has a ready hand} \bigskip Assuming an opponent would not have a {\jap dama} ready hand is obviously not always correct. Nevertheless, this shortcut would be acceptable given that accurately guessing whether or not an opponent has a ready hand is extremely difficult. Part of the reason why it is OK to ignore the case of {\jap dama} ready hand lies in the fact that riichi is such a powerful tool in riichi mahjong that calling riichi is strictly better than going {\jap dama} in most instances; your opponents cannot win a game if they keep choosing {\jap dama} when they should call riichi (and they are likely to know that). -\subsection{Three conditions to push/fold} +\subsection{Trois conditions pour pousser ou se coucher} Note that, according to the principle laid out above, just because (you think) an opponent has a ready hand, it does not automatically mean that you must fold immediately. Specifically, you should still push if two out of the three conditions specified above --- ready, high score, and good wait --- are met. \bigskip @@ -89,7 +89,7 @@ \subsection{Three conditions to push/fold} \bigskip For another example, consider a {\jap chiitoitsu} hand. A {\jap chiitoitsu} hand will always have a bad wait. This means that you should in principle fold if an opponent calls riichi when your {\jap chiitoitsu} hand is not ready, even if you have two or more {\jap dora} in your hand. -\section{Defense basics} \label{sec:defense} +\section{Les bases de la défense} \label{sec:defense} Once you understand the criteria to fold, the next thing you need to know is \emph{how} to fold. There are three main ways to identify safe tiles to discard. @@ -114,7 +114,7 @@ \subsection{{\jap Genbutsu} and other absolutely safe tiles} \index{dama@{\jap d \bigskip Of course, it is not always possible to find tiles that are 100\% safe for the player who has called riichi (let alone for all three opponents). Therefore, we need to know how to identify relatively safe tiles by relying on {\jap suji} and {\jap kabe} (blockade) theories. I will introduce these two theories in turn. -\subsection{Understanding {\jap suji}} \index{suji@{\jap suji}} \label{sec:suji} +\subsection{Comprendre le {\jap suji}} \index{suji@{\jap suji}} \label{sec:suji} When someone calls riichi, the possibility you need to be wary of first and foremost is that the opponent has a side-wait hand. It is true that players will call riichi even when their wait is worse than side wait. However, according to some statistics, about two thirds of riichi hands have a side wait or better. This is partly because the likelihood of choosing {\jap dama} increases when the wait is bad. Another reason is that players seek to retain side-wait protoruns over closed- or edge-wait protoruns when choosing tile blocks to maximize tile efficiency. @@ -159,7 +159,7 @@ \subsection{Understanding {\jap suji}} \index{suji@{\jap suji}} \label{sec:suji} \end{tabular} \end{table} -\subsubsection*{{\jap Suji} trap} +\subsubsection*{Les pièges {\jap suji}} \index{suji@{\jap suji}!{\jap suji} trap} Keep in mind that {\jap suji} defense works only against side-wait hands. Since players will call riichi even when their wait is worse than side wait, we cannot rely too much on {\jap suji}. When you wait for a tile that is a {\jap suji} tile of some tiles you have discarded yourself, we say you have a {\jap suji}-trap wait. In particular, when your wait is a {\jap suji} tile of the riichi declaration tile, we say it is an immediate {\jap suji}-trap wait. An immediate {\jap suji}-trap riichi is a rather common occurrence in riichi mahjong primarily because of double closed shape (e.g., 135, 246, 357, etc.). Consider the following hand. @@ -196,7 +196,7 @@ \subsubsection*{{\jap Suji} trap} Then, if we draw {\LARGE\tong{4}-\tong{7}} first, we do insta-riichi by discarding {\LARGE\suo{5}}, creating an immediate {\jap suji}-trap wait. \bigskip -\subsection*{3. Understanding tile blockade ({\jap kabe})} \label{sec:blockade} +\subsection*{3.Comprendre les murailles ({\jap kabe})} \label{sec:blockade} \index{blockade@blockade ({\jap kabe}; wall)} \index{kabe@{\jap kabe} (blockade; wall)} Another defense tactic to identify safer tiles is to utilize a {\bf tile blockade} ({\jap kabe}; wall). When chunks of a number tile are visible to you, we say these tiles form a blockade; they block a formation of runs that contain that tile. Suppose all four of {\LARGE\wan{2}} are visible to you, either because they have been discarded, they are in your hand, or they are used as a {\jap dora} indicator. @@ -325,7 +325,7 @@ \subsection{Safety ranking} There is a difference between 4,5,6 tiles, 3,7 tiles, 2,8 tiles, and terminals (1,9) because of the difference in versatility. Non-{\jap suji} 4,5,6 tiles are the most dangerous because they can be caught by two different {\jap suji} waits. For example, 4 can be caught by a 1-4 {\jap suji} and a 4-7 {\jap suji}, making it doubly dangerous. 3,7 tiles are more dangerous than 2,8 tiles because 3,7 can be caught by an edge wait, whereas 2,8 tiles cannot. terminals cannot be caught by either an edge wait or closed wait. {\jap Suji} 4,5,6 tiles are safer than {\jap suji} 2,8 tiles because 4,5,6 make for bad candidates for dual {\jap pon} wait or single wait. \newpage -\section{Defense against riichi} \label{sec:defense_riichi} +\section{La défense contre un riichi} \label{sec:defense_riichi} Putting together what we have learned so far, the defense strategy against an opponent's riichi can be summarized as follows. @@ -575,7 +575,7 @@ \subsubsection*{\fbox{Case 3} {\jap pon}} \end{itembox} \newpage -\section{Glossary} +\section{Glossaire} \begin{description} \item[{\jap Zentsu}] is to push to the fullest, usually against an opponent's riichi. diff --git a/book/RiichiBook1-ch9-call.tex b/book/RiichiBook1-ch9-call.tex index d1692ba..655418d 100644 --- a/book/RiichiBook1-ch9-call.tex +++ b/book/RiichiBook1-ch9-call.tex @@ -2,10 +2,10 @@ % Riichi Book 1, Chapter 9: Meld %~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ -\chapter{Melding judgement} \label{ch:call} +\chapter{Les appels (réquisitions)} \label{ch:call} \thispagestyle{empty} -\section{To meld or not to meld?} +\section{Appeler, ou pas?} Melding decisions --- to call {\jap pon}/{\jap chii} or not to call --- depend on a lot of variables. The most important criteria of all are the following two. @@ -107,10 +107,10 @@ \subsection{When not to meld 2: big gap in hand values} \end{itembox}\normalcolor \bigskip -\section{Melding choice: examples} +\section{Choix d'appels : exemples} We will now see more examples of melding judgements, some of which will describe an exception to the two conditions introduced so far. -\subsection{Eliminating bad waits} +\subsection{Éliminer les mauvaises attentes} One of the purposes of melding is to eliminate a bad wait in a hand to enhance speed. When you can call {\jap pon} or {\jap chii} to complete a bad-wait block in your hand it often makes sense to do so. More specifically, when you call {\jap chii} with an edge-wait or closed-wait protorun to make the hand ready, you should meld. Consider the following hand. \begin{screen} @@ -134,7 +134,7 @@ \subsection{Eliminating bad waits} If you can eliminate a bad wait and make the hand ready, meld! \end{itembox}\normalcolor -\subsection{Improving the wait} +\subsection{Améliorer l'attente} It sometimes makes sense to meld even when your hand is already ready, as long as doing so improves the wait and/or the scores. It may also make sense to meld to make a bad-wait 1-away into a good-wait 1-away one. \bigskip @@ -150,7 +150,7 @@ \subsection{Improving the wait} In the current example, calling {\jap chii} on {\LARGE\wan{5}-\wan{8}} or {\jap pon} on {\LARGE\suo{1}} will improve the wait from a closed wait to a 2-way wait. \bigskip -\subsection{Confirming {\jap yaku}} +\subsection{Confirmer son {\jap yaku}} Ideally, we would like to complete a bad-wait block by melding so that we can have a good-wait block as the final wait of the hand. However, it sometimes makes sense to complete a good-wait block by melding if doing so confirms a certain {\jap yaku} in a hand. \bigskip @@ -181,16 +181,16 @@ \subsection{Confirming {\jap yaku}} \ep You can further call {\jap chii} on any of {\LARGE\tong{4}\tong{6}\tong{7}\tong{9}} or call {\jap pon} on {\LARGE\nan} to get 5200 or above. -\subsection{Concealed set of value tiles} +\subsection{Brelan caché de valeur} There are situations where melding with a cheap and slow hand may be acceptable. Recall that one of the reasons why melding is not worthwhile with a cheap and slow hand is that we will lose safety tiles if we meld. When that is less of your concern, melding may be an option even with a cheap and slow hand. %\bigskip -\begin{itembox}[r]{Concealed set of value tiles} +\begin{itembox}[r]{Brelan caché de valeur} \bp \wan{4}\wan{6}\wan{8}\tong{2}\tong{4}\suo{1}\suo{2}\suo{5}\suo{6}\suo{6}\zhong\zhong\zhong~~\xi\\ \hfill\footnotesize{{\jap Dora}~~~~~~~~~~} \ep -\vspace{-20pt}The left player discarded {\LARGE\wan{5}} just now. +\vspace{-20pt}Le joueur à gauche vient d'écarter {\LARGE\wan{5}}. \end{itembox} \noindent @@ -269,7 +269,7 @@ \subsection{Concealed quad ({\jap ankan})} In principle, your hand needs to be close to ready to justify making a concealed quad. \end{itembox} -\subsubsection{When not to make a concealed quad} +\subsubsection{Quand ne pas faire un carré caché} Calling {\jap kan} also comes with some cost, including: \bi \itemsep.1em @@ -284,11 +284,11 @@ \subsubsection{When not to make a concealed quad} \ei \bigskip -\begin{itembox}[r]{Concealed quad?} +\begin{itembox}[r]{Carré caché?} \bp \wan{4}\wan{4}\wan{4}\wan{4}\wan{8}\wan{8}\tong{4}\tong{5}\tong{6}\tong{7}\suo{4}\suo{5}\suo{6}\suo{8}\\ \ep\index{sanshoku@{\jap sanshoku}} -\vspace{-10pt}It is your turn. What would you do? +\vspace{-10pt}C'est votre tour. Que feriez-vous? \end{itembox} \noindent If you call {\jap kan}, the hand will be 1-away and the wait will not be terribly bad; it can be made ready if you draw any of \\{\LARGE\wan{8}\tong{2}\tong{3}\tong{4}\tong{5}\tong{6}\tong{7}\tong{8}\tong{9}\suo{3}\suo{6}\suo{7}\suo{9}}, and you may draw one of these tiles as a {\jap rinshan} tile (the bonus draw after {\jap kan}). However, the resulting hand will be either riichi only or riichi + {\jap tanyao} only, sometimes with a bad wait. @@ -299,11 +299,11 @@ \subsubsection{When not to make a concealed quad} Therefore, you should not call {\jap kan} at this point and simply discard {\LARGE\suo{8}}. You can call {\jap kan} later if the hand becomes ready by drawing a {\jap pinzu} (dots) tile. \bigskip -\begin{itembox}[r]{Concealed quad?} +\begin{itembox}[r]{Carré caché?} \bp \wan{4}\wan{4}\wan{4}\wan{4}\wan{7}\wan{8}\wan{9}\tong{4}\tong{5}\suo{1}\suo{2}\suo{3}\suo{7}\suo{8}\\ \ep -\vspace{-10pt}It is your turn. What would you do? +\vspace{-10pt}C'est votre tour. Que feriez-vous? \end{itembox} \noindent If you call {\jap kan}, you will lose {\jap pinfu}. Moreover, if you draw a tile that completes one of the two side-wait protoruns after calling {\jap kan}, the hand becomes a single-wait hand. You should thus discard {\LARGE\wan{4}}. Then, if you complete one of the side-wait protoruns first, you can discard another {\LARGE\wan{4}} to make the hand ready for {\jap pinfu}. @@ -389,9 +389,9 @@ \subsection{From an open set to an open quad ({\jap kakan})} \noindent This hand has three {\jap han} and a good wait. However, since it is 2-away from ready, calling {\jap kan} on {\LARGE\zhong} is \emph{not} justifiable. \newpage -\section{Miscellaneous tips for melding} +\section{Astuces pour les appels} -\subsection{Think ahead} +\subsection{Prévoyez vos coups!} When you call {\jap pon}, you have to say ``{\jap pon}! \textipa{[p\'\textopeno\ng]}'' out loud immediately and nothing else. There is no such call as ``Wait!'', and you will have to forgo your call if (1) the next player has already drawn their tile before you call {\jap pon} or (2) another player has already called {\jap chii} before you do.\footnote{A {\jap pon} call takes precedence over a {\jap chii} call, but only if calls are made simultaneously. If the {\jap chii} call was made well before the {\jap pon} call, the {\jap chii} call should take precedence.} This means that you need to think ahead and make up your mind about what tile to call \emph{before} the tile is discarded. That is, you should think about what tile(s) can improve the wait and/or the scores of your hand all the time. For example, consider the following hand. @@ -410,10 +410,10 @@ \subsection{Think ahead} Relatedly, think about what to discard upon melding \emph{before} you call. If you are unsure about what to discard upon melding, it probably means you should not make the call. -\subsection{Be ready for {\jap dora}} +\subsection{Soyez prêt pour les {\jap dora}} You should also think about how to utilize {\jap dora} when melding. Consider the following hand. -\begin{itembox}[r]{Utilizing {\jap dora}} +\begin{itembox}[r]{Utiliser les {\jap dora}} \bp \wan{8}\wan{8}\tong{4}\tong{5}\tong{6}\tong{7}\tong{8}\suo{2}\suo{3}\suo{3}~\fa\rfa\fa~~\tong{5}\\ \hfill\footnotesize{{\jap Dora}~~~~~~~~} @@ -434,7 +434,7 @@ \subsection{Be ready for {\jap dora}} Calling {\jap chii} with {\LARGE\tong{4}\tong{5}} is better also from a perspective of defense. Having to discard {\LARGE\tong{8}} against an opponent's riichi is much better than having to discard {\LARGE\tong{5}}. {\LARGE\tong{5}} can be captured by both {\LARGE\tong{2}-\tong{5}} and {\LARGE\tong{5}-\tong{8}} {\jap suji}, whereas {\LARGE\tong{8}} can be captured only by {\LARGE\tong{5}-\tong{8}} {\jap suji}. Moreover, even if you deal into an opponent's {\LARGE\tong{5}-\tong{8}} wait, the hand value would be lower if you discard {\LARGE\tong{8}} than {\LARGE\tong{5}}, on average.\footnote{Of course, this is unless an opponent has {\jap sanshoku} of 678.} -\subsection{Be mindful of the seating} +\subsection{Soyez attentif à l’emplacement des joueurs} Each time you take a tile from the facing player ({\jap toimen}) with a {\jap pon} (or {\jap kan}) call, the left player's ({\jap kamicha}) turn gets skipped. Likewise, each time you take a tile from the right player ({\jap shimocha}) with {\jap pon/kan}, the facing player's turn gets skipped. At the same time, the right player will have an additional chance to draw a tile in either of the two instances. In this sense, your act of calling {\jap pon/kan} benefits the right player while penalizing the left and the facing players. It is useful to keep this in mind in making a melding choice, especially when the benefit of melding only slightly outweighs the benefit of keeping the hand closed in terms of tile efficiency. diff --git a/book/RiichiBook1.tex b/book/RiichiBook1.tex index 911129d..cf2af24 100644 --- a/book/RiichiBook1.tex +++ b/book/RiichiBook1.tex @@ -80,7 +80,7 @@ % Document information \title{Riichi Book} \author{Daina Chiba} -\newcommand{\thetitle}{Riichi Book I : Introduction à la stratégie au mahjong pour joueurs européens} +\newcommand{\thetitle}{Riichi Book I : Introduction à la stratégie au mah-jong pour joueurs européens} \newcommand{\theversion}{7.0} \newcommand{\thedate}{\today}